Sagging/unstable table

[tanksalot]

In our new-to-us 1999 RB BF the table (passenger side) doesn't sit level and wobbles. It appears that the vertical panel that supports the table sits a little low to keep it steady. The previous owner used some shims and an oak brace to stabilize it, but I'm hoping that there's a more "professional" solution.

Anyone else have this problem and solve it successfully?

Thanks in advance!
Stan F.

[Dude]

I can not picture the issue you are having. Post a pic of the table and the shims and maybe people can provide some advice.

[Dallas Baillio]

Found this link. It may help.

http://www.bornfreervclub.org/bulletin_ ... ble+wobble

And this.

http://www.bornfreervclub.org/bulletin_ ... php?t=1448

[tanksalot]

Here's a photo of the table up for use.



and here's the table stored in the pocket.

[Dude]

That is the same style table I have. I never really looked at it to see how it worked or what supports it. I guess the shims went on the table top by the window and the brace went uner the table.

Did the shims do the job? My suggestion would be to cut a thin piece of wood and glue it to the table top or what the table rests against so it goes level.

[whemme]

Matt,

My previous Born Free was a 1999 24' Rear Bath model with the optional dinette set and table. I modified the table to have a support leg added to the end of the table that folded up against the bottom side of the table when in the stored position. When originally purchased new, this table was level but over a couple of years of use I caught myself putting excessive downward force on the table getting into and out of the dinette seats which eventually caused the table to start to sag. My table leg modification is shown in the following two photos.

[tanksalot]

I can't believe that what I have is how they originally sold the unit. Something happened somewhere. Does yours sit flat and reasonably sturdy?

The PO used some shims and a makeshift leg support, but I'd like to make it work the way it was initially manufactured. I ASSUME the table was sturdy and sat level when they left the factory.

I could glue a strip to be a permanent shim, but before I proceed I'd like to hear from someone who has had this problem and solved it.

[tanksalot]

Bill:

I assume the auxiliary table leg hung vertically outside of the storage box when the table was put away. The former owner used shims and a prop-in leg, and I might have to do the same, but reluctantly.

Anyone disassemble the "box" that holds the table when it's stored?

[whemme]

tanksalot,

If you look at my above two photos, you will notice two white cable clamps like shown in the photo below. My table had a metal handle (as yours also has) under the end of the table and I used two suitable sized clamps around this handle and screwed to the oak leg. These clamps act as a hinge and allows the leg to rotate as the table is lifted up and dropped into its stored position. The table leg fastened to the table handle that way results in the leg being spaced just far enough from the bottom of the table when stored so the leg lies flat against the vertical part of the table enclosure. About half way down the inside of the leg I used a 2" x 1" strip of Velcro and corresponding strip glued to the vertical part of the table enclosure to hold the leg secure so it would not be loose and rattle. Worked very well.

That table as installed by the factory just can't stand to be supported only at one end in my opinion. I used a suitable length of 0.75" by 2.0" of matching oak as the table leg.

I think you can get the white nylon cable clamps at Radio Shack.

[Roger]

Here is the type of table my first RV had (1977 Coachman Cadet) I've been thinking about retrofitting my existing table to this style. It acts as both table and support for cushions between the dinette benches when made into bed.

http://www.rvpartscountry.com/RVTableSupports

Regards, Roger

[Dude]

I checked out my table. It looks like you can pull the top piece off (on mine at least) that holds the top into the side.....just a handful of screws. I bet once you pull it apart you can see what is worn or how best to fix it if you don't want to do a leg like Bill......nice mod Bill.

I posted some pics of my interior when I first got it and someone commented how they were jealous that I had a real wood table. I didn't think much of it until now. After 25 years, my table seems to still be strong and stable. I guess you get the sag with the non wood models.

[whemme]

Matt,

My table was wood with laminate on top and it sagged. The constant downward force on the table due to people leaning on it causes the sag over time.

[tanksalot]

Here's the same table after repairing the problem.


I learned that the table is held level by the front panel, which is set in two grooves routed into the side panels, and that front panel was originally held in place by hot melt glue. With time, the hot melt let go, the front panel dropped, and the table sagged.

Disassembly was not technically challenging, but did absolutely require the use of an impact square-drive screwdriver to remove 2 - 3 inch wood screws screwed into oak. I scraped out the hot melt from the grooves (quite easy to do....it wasn't well adhered at all) and then reassembled front and side panels using wood glue.

After reassembly, I remounted the assembly (without the top or table) and taped the front panel to the sides to make sure it didn't drop while the glue was drying.

After the glue dried I inserted the table and screwed the top piece back on. The top piece had also been hot melt glued, but I didn't re-glue it in case I subsequently wanted to modify the table setup.

[Dude]

Great fix!!