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Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:41 am
by Roger H
I have found a likely culprit for the leak! My 23RK has the solar panel option installed (a WONDERFUL option, I might add...) and the two charging lines enter the roof at a point almost immediately above where the leaks are showing on the walls. There are two lines going in... with silicone caulk gobbed around them... That's where I'll be attacking first. The rest of the caulk up there, and all the way around the cab looks really solid so far.

The first two photos are the passenger side cab showing the seam and drip rail above the door showing the over-the-sleeper cap seam as well.

The second two are an over-all showing the solar panels, and then a closer shot showing the suspect wiring entry point.

Roger

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:42 am
by Roger H
And the roof showing the solar panels and suspect caulk at the wiring entry.

Roger

Posted: Wed Jun 27, 2007 6:54 am
by Roger H
The interior leak stain on the passenger side. The driver's side is nearly identical...

Roger

Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:33 pm
by Roger H
I went leak chasing today. After I climbed up on the roof, I started poking and prodding silicone sealant, and found that the silicone around the cables wasn't adhered to the cables any more. That'd leak!

So, I dug the old silicone out from the hole, cleaned the cables and the gelcoat with acetone, and re-sealed it with self-levelling RV rubber roof sealant.

I had some screws leak in the Fantastic Fan in a Scamp 16' trailer I had last year, so I decided it would be prudent to check the seal on each screw on the Fantastic Fan. Of the 24 or so screws up there, 17 silicone gobs were loose and came right off. I replaced all of them with the roof sealant.

We'll see how I did!

Roger

Posted: Sat Jun 30, 2007 7:38 pm
by Roger H
The Fantastic Fan re-seal.

Fantastic Fan Reseal

Posted: Sun Jul 01, 2007 3:44 pm
by Sab & Ann
Fantastic Fan recommends using "Dicor" white sealant for their fans. It can be purchased from CW. Your water stains can be removed with "Woolite".
Sab & Ann

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 7:17 am
by Roger H
I used "Dicor 501 LSW" lap sealant. I hadn't thought of Woolite!

Thanks, Sab & Ann!

Roger

Posted: Mon Jul 02, 2007 11:18 pm
by Steve
I think you need to use something like MINI CLAM SHELL VENT These small vents are perfect for covering vent holes for battery boxes, water or fuel tanks, or for covering areas of small cables.
Here is a pic.

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 4:05 pm
by Roger H
Success!

After a 1.7" rainfall last night, the cabin is bone dry! The leak was apparently from the solar panel lines.

Roger

Posted: Wed Jul 04, 2007 6:20 pm
by bcope01
Roger, Congrats!

I'm really surprised that those cables were just poked through the roof like that. I've always thought that they would typically be routed down a vent pipe, or the like. Since they are like they are, I like Steve's idea of covering the hole with a mini clam shell vent cover. Not only will it help deflect driving rain, it will keep the damaging sun's rays off the sealant.

Bill

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 6:00 am
by Roger H
Bill, it would also trap water if the coach were off-level to the front or either side. I would have liked to have seen some kind of finishing fixture done, but really, the exposed sealant is probably the best way to do it. The shells work great if the opening is facing down, but I don't think it'd do so well placed horizontally unless you filled it with caulk. It'd be difficult to get a seal though 'cause you couldn't see how well you were filling it inside, and then you'd have more sealant issues because you have to use screws to keep it in place and THEY need to be sealed.

Roger

Posted: Thu Jul 05, 2007 2:16 pm
by Steve
The idea of the mini vent over the wires/cabling is to fill it with sealant so water is NOT trapped inside and is protected from sun and wind when you are driving, remember the "wind" is blowing at the speed of the vehicle. It also makes for a neater more professional looking job.
Steve

Posted: Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:30 am
by norijake
I've used these Cable Clams made by Blue Sea Systems for waterproof thru-deck fittings. The Buna-N (Nitrile) rubber gasket material seems to stand up to the elements better than most anything else I've used.

Even though there is a bottom gasket which should preclude the use of extra sealant for the screws, I always drilled and tapped the screw holes and applied a small dollop of thread sealant to the screws. I replaced the self-tapping screws with machine screws but this probably wasn't necessary if one didn't want to go to the extra trouble to tap the holes.

You may find them useful.

http://pyacht.iserver.net/cgi-local/Sof ... 1183736606