New additions

Mel Wilbur · Post by **Mel Wilbur** » Thu Jun 28, 2012 5:57 pm

Thought I would pass on two recent additions I added to our coach that has lived up to my expectations. The first was the chassis battery charger by www.lslproducts.com and the second the Smart Plug30amp hookup, www.smartplug.com that replaced the Marinco unit that is standard on the Born Free coaches.

Since the installation I have checked the chassis battery regularly and it always reads 13.2 a normal maintenance charge. Like others that store their coach plugged into electric our chassis battery would need periodic charging to keep it in the proper amperage range.

The 30amp hookup is a simple push on pull off unit that also has an led light when energized and a built in heat sensor that shuts off power to the coach prior to excessive heat that could cause damage. Makes hookups much easier especially in bad weather or in the dark.

jlef123 · Post by **jlef123** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 5:48 pm

Your post prompted me to check out my shore power connection. On close inspection I realized I had a problem with it and it needed replacement. I checked out the smart plug as you suggested and ordered it even though it is considerably more than the OE Marinco connection. My wife reminded me that Mel checks out everything thoroughly and the safety features were worth the extre dollars. West Marine was the best place to order it, no tax and free shipping. The install was even easy enough so I could do it myself. The instructions and Video online make it simple. Thanks for the reminder and I would suggest that everyone check their shorepower connection and replace it if you see any scorch marks.

Mel Wilbur · Post by **Mel Wilbur** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 6:53 pm

Joel,

Another interesting thing concerning the conversion to the Smart Plug system is that my volt/hertz meter in the coach always had a reading 2 - 3 volts lower than if plugged into a receptacle on my work bench (on the same system in my garage). I always thought it was caused by the converter/charger, but after making the change it now reads 1 volt higher. Although I had no scorch marks, the original system was not making the best connection.

Yes, I do my best to thoroughly check out items that I feel make an improvement (even those that just look nice) and have been pleased with this system and the ease of installation. Thought it interesting that the Marinco system has not changed since it was developed in 1938.

jeleuen · Post by **jeleuen** » Sun Jul 15, 2012 10:28 pm

Interesting post. How much is the Smart Plug? How much time and difficulty to install? Does West Marine also sell replacement shore power line too? Thanks.

jlef123 · Post by **jlef123** » Mon Jul 16, 2012 11:53 am

West Marine's price for the combination kit (inlet and cord plug) is $199.95 plus free shipping and no tax. The same components for the old Marinco product would have cost me $130.00 at a WestMarine store. It was a small store and they did not stock the Smartplug. They do make a cord set with a standard 30 amp male plug one end and a female smartplug on the other. Do not know the price. But if you bought that then you would only need the inlet. Not sure if WestMarine carry's it but there are other sources. The smartplug company gave me the name of another supplier in Seattle, which is where they are located. Give Smartplug a call if you can't find what you want. I found them very helpful and believe it or not a person answered the phone without going through a phone tree. It took me about an hour to install both items. By the way you'll need a #1 phillips screwdriver in addition to what they show on the instruction sheet.

Mel Wilbur · Post by **Mel Wilbur** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 3:45 pm

Joel,
The following is from the July issue of the fmca magazine. Was this the same type of problem you had with your connection.

Sparks A-Flyinâ€™

Dear RV Doctor:
When I plug the shore power cord into any 120-volt-AC socket using an adapter, or even without the adapter (straight into the 30-amp receptacle), I draw an arc to the terminal prongs. Over time, they have become pitted. Why does this happen? Should I turn off the main circuit breaker before connecting to the power source?

Contrary to what you might think, the bright yellow and green sparks you see when unplugging an extension cord or shore power plug are not electrons zipping around; they are tiny bits of superheated metal burning in the air. Where does that burning metal come from? Well, it comes from the copper contacts on the shore cord when they are plugged or unplugged while the system is energized under a load. This means that every time you plug and unplug the motorhome shore power while the pedestal is powered up, you're giving up little bits of metal from the contacts, which eventually show up as pits in the surface of the contact prongs.

As this occurs more frequently, these tiny pits tend to spall off more metal, creating even larger pits, and the degradation continues. Eventually, enough metal from the plug contacts will be lost that the prongs will begin to heat up under normal current loads. Thatâ€™s not a good thing, since they can get hot enough to melt the plastic plugs or even catch fire.

Itâ€™s always best to turn off the main circuit breaker on the campsite pedestal before you plug or unplug any shore power or extension cords. Only after you have a secure connection should you turn on the pedestal breaker. Once the plug contacts are pitted, there isnâ€™t much you can do to restore the surface. I do recommend brightening up the contacts, but deep pitting usually mandates a replacement of the entire shore cord.

shilohdad · Post by **shilohdad** » Fri Jul 20, 2012 4:13 pm

Mel, that is excellent advice. We read about this several years ago, and we (well, actually she who does the hookups most of the time - I'm the chauffeur) are fastidious about doing this. So far, no spitzen sparken.

jlef123 · Post by **jlef123** » Tue Jul 24, 2012 5:06 pm

Mel
I did not see sparks as described in the FMCA article. The yellow plastic around one of the female hot legs of the cordset was actually burned away approximately a pennies thickness. The corresponding male component on the coach inlet was brown but not charred black. I never (well maybe once or twice) connected or disconnected the cordset from the coach without turning off the breaker from the campground. I did notice that the connection was hot when I ran the airconditioner. If I wasn't running the AC but just things like the TV the connection was cool. Since I bought the Coach second hand I have limited knowledge as to its History. I do know that the original owner had problems with the cordset and it was replaced by Marinco under warranty. From the pictures I have of it it appears that he had problems with the connection of the cord to the plugs at either end. He had electrical tape wrapped around the connection of the plugs to the wire. Looked to me like he may have been pulling on the cord to disconnect rather than the plug itself. A theory that I have is that he may have damaged one of the hot leg connections on the coach inlet and over time it got progressively worse so that 10 years later it was a serious problem. Do you think that is possible?
However it doesn't make any difference how it happened. It did happen and the new SmartPlug is working great and I have the security of knowing that if it does overheat it will automatically turn itself off. Now I just have to continue looking at some of the other gadgets you have in your coach to see what I can put in mine. I especially like the grill you installed, gives the truck a custom look. Doesn't help it's performance but it sure looks cool.

Norm · Post by **Norm** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 12:28 pm

Mel,
I'm looking at this discussion quite a while after the fact, but wondering about my own power cord. I have a 2004 BFT and have noticed lately that the area around the prongs on the plug seem to have been hot. There is no pitting nor holes, but it must have gotten hot. I did not know to turn off the power at the site before hooking up, so that may be the problem. [Thanks] Do you suggest I do anything at this point? The plug itself does not look damaged.
Thanks...Norm

whemme · Post by **whemme** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 1:39 pm

It should always be standard procedure to turn off the associated circuit breaker at the campground power pedestal before plugging in your coach's AC power cord to it.

If you are plugging into the standard 30-amp service, shut the associated 30-amp breaker off first. If plugging into 50-amp or 20-amp service with appropriate adapters, shut the associated 50-amp or 20-amp breaker off first.

Doing so will protect both your power cord and associated contacts and the campground power pedestal connector from damage caused by arcing.

oliverpsmile · Post by **oliverpsmile** » Tue Jul 31, 2012 9:39 pm

Ditto.

The breakers are designed to break the ark or energize the electrical system under load . The prongs are to assure connectivity up to designated amperage.

Mel, the 1 volt higher with your new plug sounds, I am sorry, funny. If you had 2-3 volts drop at your old plug by now it would be frayed (at least 60 to 90 watts heat generation or real arking).

Again, our original plugs will last for ever, provided that they are utilized correctly. The user is the one who is smart [or not]. Cables have no brains, to be called smart.

jobrien · Post by **jobrien** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 1:02 pm

Just came back from Hershey Park, and I noticed some burn marks on my power cord. I remembered this post and decided I would relace my cord and inlet receptacle. Until I saw the price. YIKES!

Anyone have an alternate, less expensive option? I do not like the twist on one I have, would prefer a straight plug in type.

Thanks

John

Mel Wilbur · Post by **Mel Wilbur** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 7:05 pm

I just discovered another plus for the Trik-L-Start I mentioned in my original post. When plugged into electric or running the generator I can use the Ford radio/cd player without being concerned about running down the chassis battery.

Mel Wilbur · Post by **Mel Wilbur** » Sat Aug 11, 2012 9:59 pm

Sam, the installation of the Trik-L-Start took me about 15 minutes. Just three wires, a wire to each of the two studs on the battery isolator and a ground wire. A real easy do it yourself job.

jobrien · Post by **jobrien** » Sun Aug 19, 2012 7:14 pm

I searched around and could not find a decent replacement for my plug and power inlet. So I ordered the Smart Plug through Amazon for $182, no tax or shipping.

I was really impressed with the weight and size of it. Think I'll have to add a little more air to the air bag on the driver's side to compensate for the weight of the inlet plug.

The hardest part of the installation was pushing the old power cord through the weatherproof seal of the Smart Plug. You have to use lots of soap to lubricate it. I also made the mistake of taking a lunch break after I got teh cord through and before I connected the wires. After lunch i read the instructions further. After connecting the wires up, you now have to push the excess cable back out through the seal. Well, duh, the soap has now dried and that baby wasn't being pushed anywhere

Well, after some coaxing, trying to squeeze liquid soap down the sleeve, turning it, massaging it and saying a few prayers, it finally gave up and let me win. Simple after that. Doing the inlet side was easy.

I did have some burn marks on the plug end (white wire) and the wire (white) inside the inlet was discolored and some burning of the insulation had taken place.

I tried to figure out, without success, how to open the plug end of the old power cord. Would like to know how they wired the terminals inside the plug. It seems like it was molded after the connections are made. I just wanted to take it apart and look inside.

Thanks Mel for the info.